I’m reporting from Hargeisa, the capital of Somaliland, standing in front of the city’s iconic war memorial at Freedom Square, also known as Khayriyada Memorial Square. At its centre is a MiG‑17 fighter jet mounted on a plinth, a stark reminder of the devastation Hargeisa endured during the 1988 conflict.

“That is an iconic story. Really, this picture is a sadness, it’s a sorrow,” a local explained as I took in the memorial. Back then, Somaliland was still part of Somalia, yet the central government launched brutal air strikes that destroyed 90 per cent of the city and killed many thousands.

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Despite the horrific past, Somalilanders remain united in their determination never to return to Somalia. “Somaliland will never forget this historic moment. We are together and we never go back,” one resident told me. Three years later, the Somali government collapsed, and in 1991 Somaliland declared its independence.

The story of rebuilding is remarkable. The nation’s revival was driven by a combination of military veterans and educated professionals who established governance systems to restore order and public services. “We declared our self-determination. Our case is not secession, it is restoration,” a local leader said proudly.

Somaliland is now a functioning democracy, boasting transparency, accountability, and safety. The people stress that their history and governance are fundamentally different from Somalia’s. “We were a British protectorate; Somalia was an Italian colony. Our ideology is democracy, stability, transparency. Somalia has a completely different path,” a resident explained.

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